WHATEVER HAPPENS IN PRAGUE STAYS THERE, I WAS TOLD

When I write a paper I like to immerse myself in the world of my philosophers. It helps me interact with their ideas. This year, as I write on Czech-Brazilian philosopher Vilém Flusser, that world had to be Prague – the city Kafka once described as a dear little mother with claws who never let him go.

Once I heard Pangaea was organizing a 4-night trip for 190 euros, I didn’t think twice. I packed a suitcase, camera, and dreamed of blue-eyed blonde beauties. I know this last bit contrasts with “immersing myself in the world of my philosophers”, but did you really think I’d go to Prague just for that? Besides, as Hume says: being a philosopher doesn’t preclude being a man.

We left Leuven on the evening of March 12. While waiting for our bus at Pangaea, I met these blokes who’d been to Prague a year before. They talked heaps about the great time they had. But they all made a point: Whatever happens in Prague stays there.

Still at Pangaea, I palled up with a nice student from Florida who wakes up every morning to jog, even after a late night out; eats fresh fruit; hates McDonald’s; and doesn’t drink soda. Buy it?

On the bus my unusual American pal and I shared the dinettes with 5 French Erasmus students who turned up to be an amazing bunch. After introductions and small talk, we were all caught up in playing cards. A great night of Crazy 8, Queen of Spades and Bullshit, but it was time to try and sleep a bit.

I won’t lie to you. No matter how luxurious a bus is, it’s still a bus. And if you’ve ever spent 10 hours riding one, you know what I mean. Dinettes are great for games and, of course, dining; but not the best place for a good nap. I struggled, heads on the table, against the window; but ended up counting cars instead.

We arrived at our hostel in downtown Prague around 9. We had breakfast, chatted a bit, and got acquainted with two other good lads, Nigerian Austin and Chinese Siqiao. At this point our room was full. We were then given the afternoon program: a guided city tour. The group had the rest of the morning to relax and get ready to rock the city of Kafka.

Later the whole group met Eva, our tour guide. She first took us to Old Town Square, just in time to see a Chinese couple getting married by the Clock Tower – a medieval astronomical clock mounted on the southern wall of the Old City Hall.

As far as style goes, Prague puts the likes of other cities to shame. Prague Castle at night is simply an unforgettable sight. It is, according to Guinness, the biggest ancient castle in the world at about 70,000m2. Its history stretches to the 9th century. The Bohemian Crown Jewels are kept here. It also houses the National Gallery and several museums.

Situated entirely within the Castle complex is St. Vitus Cathedral, a 14th century Gothic wonder containing the tombs of many Bohemian kings. It’s also the seat of Prague’s Archbishop, if anyone cares.

Now, while waiters in Prague aren’t what you’d call “friendly”, dining at a 13th century restaurant was great experience. Thanks Pangaea for the treat.

Then we headed to Bombay – a busy cocktail bar big enough to cope with its popularity. After Jack Daniels, Sunrises and Margaritas, I’d have to ask Freud for the rest of the story.

No, I didn’t forget Flusser. He was the son of Jewish intellectuals from Prague. His father studied maths and physics with Einstein and lectured at Charles University. After the Nazis occupied the city in 1938, Flusser fled to Brazil where he lived and worked for 40 years. Flusser’s parents, grandparents, and sister all died in concentration camps.

So on our last day in Prague I visited the Jewish Cemetery. Established in the 1500’s, it contains 12,000 tombstones. With over 80,000 names of victims of the holocaust written on its walls, Klausen Synagogue, by the entrance to the Cemetery, is a must. But among all those names, I searched in vain for Flusser. Now, as I write my paper and translate Flusser’s History of the Devil, I see Nazis took away his homeland and family, but couldn’t take away his philosophy.

Back at Pangaea, as we waved goodbye and exchanged Facebook addresses, I still had Black Eyed Peas in my head reminding me of those “good, good nights” in Prague, when we had it all. But as you read through you might get the impression this isn’t half the story. And you’re right! Remember those words of wisdom: Whatever happens in Prague stays there. |